Top Tips – Skin Protection from Sun Rays

Ray Bans or Ban Those Rays?

Approximately 5 per cent of the UV radiation hitting the skin is reflected. The remaining 95 per cent passes into the tissue, gets scattered and then passes out again, or gets absorbed by molecules in the various layers of the epidermis and dermis.

UVA rays are longer than UVB so they can penetrate more deeply through the skin’s surface where they kill collagen and elastin, which makes your skin slack and floppy, and cause dry, leathery, blotchy skin. How wrinkled your skin gets depends largely on how much sun you have been exposed to in your lifetime. People who spend a lot of time outside without adequate protection, develop leathery skin earlier, which makes them look older than they are.

Light Spectrum

The longer the wave-length the greater the energy level and the more damage it can do.

UVA – Longer wave-lengths mostly transmitted to the dermis to be absorbed by haemoglobin in the blood or reflected back up and out of the body; known to cause damage in the deeper layers, and skin cancer.

UVB – Shorter wave-lengths largely removed in the epidermis, particularly by DNA and melanin; known to cause sunburn and skin cancer.

UV radiation has many effects on the skin as a result of its absorption by skin molecules, called chromophores, the most important of which is DNA. After UV absorption, DNA undergoes chemical changes. If these alterations are not repaired, they can be highly disruptive to the way cells function. It is now known that even small amounts of sunlight on the skin can cause DNA damage throughout the entire thickness of the epidermis. Fortunately, most of this is repaired within days, although some permanent damage may remain. The absorption of UV radiation by skin chromophores and the irrepairable damage are considered the main causes of visible skin damage. All levels of the skin are affected, but because UVB is largely absorbed high up before it reaches the dermis, most of the immediate damage is to the epidermis. UVA makes up approximately 95 per cent of the ultraviolet light that we are exposed to.

When DNA is damaged by UVB exposure, chemicals are released that are important in repairing other skin molecular structures and which cause underlying blood vessels to swell. This is what shows up as sunburn. These chemicals may also contribute to harming the collagen and elastin fibres in the dermis, helping to speed up ageing. If after severe sunburn, the damage is so extensive that the cell cannot repair itself and dies, the skin blisters and peels. If the DNA is not accurately repaired, it is possible that the cells may pass on a mutation that may eventually lead to skin cancer.

Reality Check

Longer UVA and UVB wavelengths can pass right through the atmosphere even on a cloudy day, so you can still get sunburnt when the sun isn’t shining!

Photo-Aging

To judge the effects of photo-aging on your skin, compare the appearance of areas that have not been exposed to the sun, with your face, hands and chest.

Those areas normally covered by clothing are smoother and tend to be more freckle and wrinkle free. Facial skin, in contrast, may be freckled or dry and often looks dull, blotchy and deeply wrinkled. It can also become covered with thread veins.

Photo-aging is the result of accumulated skin damage caused by UV radiation over many years. As with sunburn, UVB wave-lengths have the greatest impact. The potentially deeper reaching UVA rays may affect you if you spend a lot of time on a sunbed or sunbathing, using a sunscreen that only blocks UVB rays. When the body is unable to fully repair damage to the DNA in the cells of the epidermis and the dermis, their structure deteriorates. The changes can be irreversible. Sunlight also causes changes to the melanocytes, which gradually stop functioning so that your skin develops brown spots, blotchiness or a yellowish hue. The epidermis becomes thinner and more fragile. All these changes together make up the visible signs of skin photo-ageing.

Reality Check

The only safe tan is a fake tan. Tanning parlours and sunbeds are public enemy number one and a wrinkle’s best friend.

Never Too Early to Start Sun Protection

Start your sun protection programme early: it has been estimated that up to 50 per cent of your total UV radiation exposure is acquired by the age of 18, and 75 per cent by the age of 30.

If your photo-ageing clock has been ticking for some time, you can minimize further changes by being careful in the sun from now on. photo-ageing steadily develops even if you avoid sunbathing. Simply taking a walk around the block or sitting at a street café will allow your skin to be affected by the sun’s rays. The skin doesn’t need to turn red, pink or burn for slow permanent damage to take place. Sunburn is a skin repair process. Tanning is the release of UV- protective pigment following UV-induced DNA damage. Accumulated skin damage over many years produces deep wrinkles. Although the skin on your face may never look as young as the skin on your buttocks, it will look much better if you protect it from sun exposure. Practising safe sun and avoiding tanning beds are a MUST.

Seven Signs of Photo-aging:

• Dehydrated and thickened outer skin layers.
• Flaking and rough skin-aggravating
• Age spots and sunburn freckles
• Sallow complexion.
• Enlarged pores clogged with sebum
• Broken, enlarged capillaries
• Millia or small white cysts.

SPF Savvy – Get Skin Protection from Sun Rays

Sunscreens temporarily absorb ultraviolet rays. The best formulas protect against both UVA – the culprit in wrinkle formation – and UVB, which causes tanning and burning.

The higher the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating, the stronger and longer its effects. The SPF index only addresses UVB rays. For protection against UVA, look for products containing Parsol 1789, zinc oxide, or titanium dioxide.

The burning question is ‘how much do I really need?’ Sunblock should come in a 6-pack, because most of us use far too little of it to be effective. Very few people use sunscreen everyday, all year round. Autumn and winter are no exception, no matter where you live or travel to.

Top Tip:

When it comes to suntan lotion, rub it on, rub it in well, rub it all over and rub it often.

Suncreen versus Sunblock

Sunscreen – chemical agent that denatures light, making the wave-lengths incapable of causing damage.

Sunblock – agent that acts as a physical barrier to prevent sunlight from reaching the surface of the skin.

Some sunscreen formulas combine a mixture of the two concepts. More sensitive skin types may tolerate physical blockers better. Sunscreens with a heavier coating provide a better physical barrier.

Does your Sun Protection Pass the Test?

With so many formulas on the market, it’s hard to know which one is best for you.

Always use a minimum of SPF15. Use SPF30 for more intense exposure. Choose products that offer broad spectrum protection (both UVA and UVB). For spot-prone skin, use an oil-free or non-comedogenic sunscreen.

There are two types of sunscreens:

Chemicals – absorb UV light to reduce the amount that reaches the skin.

Reflectors – derived from minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide that scatter sunlight thus reflecting it away from the skin.

Sunscreens with physical blockers, which lie on the skin’s surface, are widely available. The new mineral sunscreens are lighter and wearable under make-up. Zinc oxide is the more potent and more expensive, so titanium dioxide is more widely used.

The difference in texture between cosmetic sunscreens for daily protection and sport sunscreens for outdoor and beach protection is waterproofing. Waterproof lotions have an oil base, which is thicker and heavier and can clog pores. When a product is labelled ‘water resistant’, it should specify the length of time it will last if you come into contact with water. Labelling varies from country to country and there is still no standardization. Many dermatologists believe that over SPF15, the differences in protection levels are very small, but SPF15 is the minimum you need for it to be effective. Bump that up to SPF30 if you are playing sports, or are on a holiday where you are outdoors more than usual, skiing, swimming or strolling.

Using a moisturiser that contains a sunscreen can also be misleading. You are unlikely to apply as much of it or use it as often as a regular sunscreen, so it will not be as effective. It may be adequate if you apply it all over your face and neck daily, if your sun exposure is limited. It would not be considered enough protection for a day at the beach or playing tennis. What you use on your body is not the same as what you would choose for your face. Most women tend to buy two different sun products; one for the body and one with a higher SPF for the face. Choose a moderately priced formula for your body so you’ll use more of it.

It is critical that you like the feel, fragrance and texture, to ensure that you use it daily.

For your face, splurge on an elegant product that you enjoy using.

Top Tip:

The best sun protectors are a wide-brimmed hat and protective clothing, especially the kind made with cool, light, tightly woven fabrics that keep the sun’s rays out. Sunglasses with polarized lenses offer protection for your eyes and from crow’s-feet.

Top Tip:

Don’t forget to cover the most burn-prone areas: your lips, eyelids, back of your neck, tip of your nose, forehead, chest, shoulders and ears.

Top Tip:

In addition to ensuring good protection from the sun for your skin, adding a good skincare cleansing regime will also prevent your skin from aging and will keep it looking youthful for longer.